Called to the Sunset

✍️ 🕑 • Series: Towards the Beautiful Islands • Tags: beachessunsetsdeerspiritualityRecreation SitesHaida GwaiiGraham IslandGraham Island • Places: Rennell Sound Recreation Site Bonanza Beach


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After a memorable morning walk, and a visit to Masset and Old Masset, I returned to my campsite. I was looking at the number of days I had ahead of myself, and thought about the possible things I could do.

I had recently realized that the Haida Gwaii Museum was closed on Sunday, and so my goal of visiting it was unlikely to work out. Perhaps this wasn't the time to visit Dajing Giids after all.

Something in the Agate Beach Campground didn't speak to me, and something in my soul, in my intuition, or a voice from somewhere just told me that I ought to leave and go elsewhere. I wasn't sure where the elsewhere was yet, but there were a number of other camping spots on Graham Island or Moresby Island, and I figured it would be better to drive down towards one of them now, then to get up early, pack my stuff, and have to drive in the morning.

So I left Naikoon Provincial Park, and I drove south with no destination in mind. In a lot of ways, it felt like a crazy move. Why leave a campsite so close to sunset?

I had thought about crossing to Moresby Island, camping at Mosquito Lake, and maybe trying to get in a hike up Haida Gwaii's highest mountain the following day. But, I didn't have reception at Agate Beach.

And once I was already on the road, I figured out that the ferry times were not conductive to my first sketch of a plan.

So, that meant I was up for Plan B, and that was the Rennell Sound, the only part of Graham Island's West Coast accessible by vehicle. The sensible, reasonable way to get there is to take a short section of logging roads past Dajing Giids.

This is not what I did. Near Port Clements, I decisively changed plans, heading instead for the Rennell Sound. I guess I had put in the Golden Spruce Trail or something in my GPS as a placeholder, and so I continued towards the Rennell Sound Rec Areas from Port.

Important Note: For any reader who ever wishes to go to the Renell Sound, I'd highly advise not taking the long stretch of logging roads from Port to the Sound, but rather taking the highway to Dajing Giids and taking the much shorter, nicer, more frequently utilized logging roads from there instead.


Logging vehicles are not known for their agility when they encounter oncoming traffic on narrow, dirt roads. For this reason, radioing your location is ettiquite. I had no radio, but I also traversed these roads at times when active logging was not ongoing.
Logging vehicles are not known for their agility when they encounter oncoming traffic on narrow, dirt roads. For this reason, radioing your location is ettiquite. I had no radio, but I also traversed these roads at times when active logging was not ongoing. open_in_full 

Anyhoo, once I was on my way to the Renell Sound, my goal was to get to a new campsite, see some new beauty, and get myself set up before I lost the chance to enjoy the sunset.


I went past lots of puddles, lots of dirt roads, yadda yadda.


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And also past a fawn, who did her desperate best to hide from my car. I could see the fear in her eyes, and I felt guilty snapping a photograph, knowing that even if I was doing her no physical harm, I was choosing to lengthen her trauma just for a brief moment.

But like, also, can I just say what a cute "hiding place?"


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Continuing onwards, I went down a nice 20% grade hill, and got to near the first campsite, the official Rennell Sound Rec Site. And I have to say, it looked pretty full. There were a lot of trailers there.

It did not speak to me and I continued onwards. And as I did, my destination became clear. One of the last areas off the logging road was one called Bonanza Beach, which was supposed to be a spectacular area.

And when I got there, I was alone.

I carried my tent, and my other belongings onto the beach, all the while mesmerized by the mossy, emerald forested path, and the wonderful display of color on the beach.


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And I retired to my tent as the pink light still hung in the sky...


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